Lomo Pres

Main tute I used:

http://www.slrlounge.com/the-ultimate-lomo-photography-effect-tutorial-lomography-photoshop-video-tutorial

THE PROCESS

•Use a raw file so you can tweak everything easily!

•Lower exposure

•Lower black, crush!

•Increase contrast

•Increase clarity

•Increase vibrancy

•Warm up temp

•Make new layer

•Create a vignette

•Use lasso and draw a rough circle around where you want the vignette to show up

•Feather (250px) the selection so there are no hard lines

•Invert the selection ctrl shift I

•Create a level adjustment layer

•Pull up shadows

•Add curves layer

•Pull high lights up

•Pull midtowns down

•Deepen shadows

•Add another curves layer

•Adjust each individual level R,G,B

•Reds up in highlights down in shadows

•Green up in highlights and down in shadows

•Blue drop highlights increase shadows

•Merge layers

•Add hue saturation layer

•Boost saturation

•Merge layers

•Add new layer

•Filter lens blur

•Radius high 44 ish  

•Add a mask

•Paint brush tool B opacity and flow 50% each

•Make sure black is selected

•Paint where you want the sharpness layer to come through

•Click to white if you want to increase the blur around edges

•Sharpen underlying layer,

•Filter, sharpen, unsharp mask

•Strengthen any area you want sharp.

 

Before

After Lomo Effect!

My HDR

Below are my seven bracketed exposures for my HDR image of the National Gallery.

after discussion with Geoff I decided to re shoot my HDR image for the project. Still wanting to capture a nice Canberra monument I chose the National Gallery,

 Here is my finished HDR image of the Gallery, after combining the images I had to clone out a man walking and a caution sign. I'm very happy with the finished result much more than my last attempt. 

Colour Management – Part 1 and 2 – Calibrating and Profiling Display Devices Report

 Calibrating and Profiling Display Devices

The first half of this project asks us to calibrate a home computer whether it be your laptop or to take the calibration device home and use it on your desktop. I decided to bring my Hp pavillion Windows 7 laptop into class and calibrate it before tech class. Knowing that photography/our school believes that everyone should have a mac I went to talk to Dave about calibrating my windows laptop. I needed to use an older device to do so, and I also needed to install a software update to my computer to run the calibration device. The device itself was the X-Rite i1 Display 2 and once I had everything installed the actually process of calibrating was rather self explanatory, I just followed the prompts and chose the advanced options but because it was a laptop there were no options like changing the contrast, I could only change the brightness.

The results unfortunately were not as I'd hoped, below is the screen shot of the profile results for my laptop calibration. Alas there are wiggly lines!

Calibration of my HP Pavillion laptop

Gamma target: 2.2
gamma current: 2.3

Calibration of the EIZO monitor #18

After Calibrating my laptop I calibrated a digital darkroom monitor, my monitor number is 18, The monitor is an EIZO FlexScan SX2462W with the X-rite i1 profile device.

When calibrating this monitor I had much more control over things for example I could adjust the screen's Red, Green and Blue levels, I could adjust the contrast level and the brightness level ask the software asked me to do so, this helped the final result as you can see below are the screenshots for
Screenshot from calibrating the Eizo monitor. Because I had much more control on the desktop rather than the laptop my results were better i.e. lines not so wiggly. 

Second follow up Calibration screenshots on Eizo monitor #18

Below are the screen shots for the follow up calibration of the EIZO monitor #18 I did on the 28^th of March (using the X-rite i1 profile device again). This calibration went a lot smoother than the first time round, being more experienced made the process easier and quicker.

I adjusted the RGB levels and brightness/contrast levels as instructed by the software. 

Colour Sync Comparison

EIZO compared to Adobe Profile
this screen shot shows us that the EIZO monitor has more of a colour space than the adobeRGB

This shot is comparing The EIZO monitor to itself from the calibrations I completed in week 4 and week 8. As you can see they are very similar.

This screenshot is the colour sync comparison of my home HP laptop and the Eizo Monitor,
as you can see there is a massive different in colour spaces, obviously the EIZO monitor is more capable with colour than my HP laptop but surprisingly form this caparison you can see that in the reds, yellows and greens my laptop is coming though meaning it is stronger with those colours.

Carillon re shoot at sunset!

As directed by Geoff I went back to my scene and re shot the Carillon at sunset, and waiting for the lights to come on. 

Below is the HDR shot of the Carillon that I shot after sunset last night. 

The Carillon does look better with it's lights on but the sky does lack a bit of interest. so at this stage I am still deciding on which shot to submit. 

 

Practise HDR finals

Above are my two practice runs of HDR imaging.

I prefer the portrait version but I think the landscape works more because you see more of the surrounding area.

My chosen scene is the Carillon so I will go back at night when the light reflections are on the lake and capture the scene again as a night image, I feel the reflections and the lights will look great when processed as an HDR image.

HDR Project Shoot

For the HDR Project I wanted to shoot a landscape but with a focus point like a sculpture or some architecture, walking around the lake on the weekend the Carillion stood out to me over the lake as the beautiful land mark of Canberra it is. Being the Centenary why not be Canberra proud and include a landmark in my HDR project. 

Below are the bracketed images I took of the Carillion, the exposures are all at ISO 100.

1/320 s

1/640 s

1/400

1/200 s

1/125 s

After these shots were taken I decided that while I was there to shoot landscape as well, below are my landscape images of the scene along with the shutter speeds.

1/640 s

1/400 s

1/320 s

1/200 s

1/125 s

So I shall merge both the landscape and portrait versions of the scene and see which one looks stronger.

HDR Research

HDRI stands for High Dynamic Range Imaging, which is a method that allows the photograph to have much higher dynamic range between the lightest part of the image and the darkest.

HDR is useful because:

When you take a photograph of a scene the camera will either allow the light parts of the image become blown out to have the darkest parts correctly exposed or the darkest part of the image underexposed to have the light part correctly metered.

If you set the camera to bracket the exposure of a scene (meaning you can purposely under and over expose the image) and take multiple shots of the same scene,  in post production using software you can merge all the exposures together to create an image that incorporates the exposures of all the images you took and this is called an HDR image.

The tools used to perform the technique

The HDR pro option in Photoshop CS2-CS6

Image mode (changing from 32 bit to 16 or 8 bit)

adjustments to

Curves

HDR toning

Gamma

Detail

Shadow

Vibrance

Saturation

*Capturing tips - only change the camera's shutter speed to adjust the exposure not the aperture because you need the Depth of Field to remain the same throughout the bracketed shots.*

Once you have taken the bracketed shots using your DSLR and tripod,  open up Photoshop and open the HDR pro option. (Choose File>Automate >Merge to HDR Pro) (you can also can use a software called Photomatrix)

When all the images files have been selected select merge, your three or more photos are now a 32 bit floating point image. It is a good idea to save this master file as a PSD file so you can always come back to the original merged HDR image.

Now you need to convert the 32 bit file into a 16 bit or 8 bit so you can edit the merged HDR image, do this by Choose Image>Mode>16 bit (or 8 bit). To do this correctly you need to tone map your image file before conversion.

Once your image file is an 8 bit you have the editing options available to you like exposure, gamma, edge glow, tone and detail and all the usual slider bars like highlights, shadows, saturation and vibrance. Once you’re happy with how the image looks you ok to convert and you are done!

Info on bits:

8 bit has 256 tones per channel 

16 bit image has 64 K !

32 bit floating point is unlimited  

References used to source the information.

Photoshop HDR tutorial. hdri, High Dynamic Range Photography. | Merging HDR in Photoshop Tutorial. 2013. Photoshop HDR tutorial. hdri, High Dynamic Range Photography. | Merging HDR in Photoshop Tutorial. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.photoshopcafe.com/tutorials/HDR_ps/hdr-ps.htm. [Accessed 10 March 2013].

High dynamic range imaging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013. High dynamic range imaging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging. [Accessed 10 March 2013].